Silver Cleaning and Care

Do not wear sterling silver in the swimming pool. The high Chlorine and /or Bromine contents used in swimming pools can accelerate the tarnishing of Sterling Silver jewelry.

Store your silver in a cool, dry place that is preferably airtight, to avoid oxidation. Avoid direct overexposure to artificial light or sunlight for long periods. Don't store directly on wood, which often contains acids that can affect silver's surface.

Store items in a tarnish-proof cloth, or in drawers with tarnish-resistant strips. Store each item individually. Do not store silver loose in drawers because scratches occur from bumping or pieces rub against each other.

Handle your jewelry on the edges after cleaning and when putting a piece on. This will keep finger prints from attracting tarnish.

If a piece of silver jewelry becomes tarnished, use a paste, liquid polish or a treated polishing cloth to restore its original luster. Never put rubber bands or plastic directly against the surface of your silver.

Scratches and marks can be buffed out, old pieces and heirlooms can/should be repaired by hand .

What causes tarnish is humidity and chemicals in the air. The most common tarnish causing elements are food (onions, eggs, mayonnaise, salad dressing, salty foods) salt, wool, felt, rubber bands, latex gloves, carpet padding, sulfur in the air, oily residue from our hands and fingers.

Tarnish can be minimized during storage. Place individual pieces of silver inside plastic bags, then seal the bags. Wrap each piece with non-buffered tissue paper, acid-free and of archival quality, or soft, anti-tarnish tissue to guard against humidity and prevent contact with materials from the storage bag to the silver. Tarnish-absorbing cloths and Anti-Tarnish, like 3M or Hagerty Anti-Tarnish strips, paper strips also work well for a limited time. An alternative choice is to place small containers or bags of desiccated silica gel and activated charcoal inside the bag. Storing silver in a special silver chest or box lined with tarnish preventive fabric is also effective, and you can add an Anti-Tarnish strip into the box/chest and change it every few months. DO NOT use plastic cling wrap, newspaper or rubber bands. They have properties that react with silver causing damage that will require a silversmith to repair or polish to remove the damage. Cardboard boxes that aren't archival have acids that will tarnish the silver very rapidly. DO NOT lacquer or wax your silver due to the difficulties in obtaining an even coating. Many times if the coating was not been applied well, it may be uneven, have streaks and/or small holes, so that when the object tarnishes, the end result is many times worse than if no coating had been applied at all.

When displaying your silver in an open display, you can apply a micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance or Hagerty's Silversmiths Spray Polish that contains R-22 Tarnish Preventative. Also treated gloves are available and a good way to keep displayed silver items clean.

If you keep a paper Anti-tarnish strip in your jewelry box, and occasionally wash in warm water with a phosphate-free detergent and dry with a soft cotton cloth, that may all that is needed. Or just wipe clean with the cloth before returning to your jewelry box. Remember to apply your hairspray and perfume BEFORE putting on any jewelry.

Silver jewelry should be worn and easily accessible so you can enjoy it without inconvenience.

Museum conservators use a different method requiring special chemicals, hours of time and experience. The easiest way to keep your silver cleaning to a minimum is to store it properly.

If there is no tarnish on your silver, use a phosphate-free detergent to clean it after use. Silver that is used, then gently washed and dried immediately, will have less tarnish.

2. When first noticed, tarnish is easily removed, but is harder as it turns to black. Frequent light cleanings of washing the object with a phosphate-free detergent then drying with a soft cloth is better than waiting until an abrasive polish is needed.

3. When polishing or drying always, use a clean, soft cotton cloth, and some items may require a clean, soft cotton ball.

4. Rub the object in a straight, back-an-forth manner so to maintain a uniform appearance. Don't rub in a circular motion.

5. Dishwashers are not recommended as they turn silver an odd color and remove oxidation from the pattern, and the heat may also loosen knife blades. The detergent and high temperature used in dishwashers is too abrasive, and can leave a dull non-reflective surface, that will require a trip to a professional silversmith to restore. The same applies to silver dips and other "miracle" cleaners. Items with mother-of-pearl, bone or ivory handles should never go in the dishwasher. Rare, old pieces should never be put in the dishwasher or mechanically buffed. Silver that touches stainless steel in the dishwasher can create a chemical reaction, producing black spots on the silver requiring professional refinishing.

6. For objects WITHOUT porous parts, use sparingly with a moist cellulose sponge either Tarni-Shield, Twinkle, Goddard's Silver Wash, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish or Wright's Silver Cream. Use gloves of anti-tarnish or cotton cloth. Never use rubber gloves with silver. If using Hagerty Silversmiths Spray Polish on intricate items, filigree, or items with hard to reach spots, lay objects on a cotton cloth, spray, and wait 30 seconds to dry. Use a clean part of the cloth in each time you dry or polish item. Rub the object in a straight, back-an-forth manner, not a circular motion. Rinse the sponge regularly because the tarnish can be abrasive. Flat cotton swabs with little silver polish applied are excellent for cleaning between fork tines, run it parallel within each opening.

Dried polish should be removed by patting the area with a warm, wet cotton ball or wet horsehair brush. Rinse the object with warm water then dry with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dishtowel immediately to avoid spotting. Selvyt is a lint-free, untreated, 100% cotton wiping cloth

For heavy tarnish, use a rouge cloth to restore the original luster to silver and gold. Unlike the Selvyt cloth that is untreated, the rouge cloth contains a polishing agent, normally rouge. If you prefer not to apply a tarnish protectant, wash all silver by hand with a phosphate free dishwashing detergent and warm water, then dry immediately with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dishtowel.

Silver is not to touch a metal sink because of scratches. Remove food from your silver promptly.

For objects WITH porous parts, like stones or amber

Avoid touching the non-silver portion, gemstone, or hollow part of the item with the polish. With the smallest amount of polish possible, use a large cotton ball and turn the surface being cleaned. Water can damage wood, amber, precious stones, gems, ivory insulators, and felt used on the bottoms of candlesticks, and other pieces. Don't allow moisture into hollow areas that will not dry, e.g. handle sockets with minute holes. If there is no water, use Goddard's™ Long Shine Silver Polish or Hagerty Silversmith Spray Polish (apply Hagerty's to the cotton ball then quickly apply to the item). These are the two polishes that are meant to dry then buff off. Let the polish dry and remove it with a Selvyt cloth (preferred) or cotton dishtowel that is also excellent for highlighting ornament.

To remove grime and dried polish left on previously polished pieces use a dry horsehair brush. Then use a wet brush with soft bristles to lift the old polish with minimal abrasion. Use a moistened toothpick in areas.

8. Chemical Dips: We don't recommend chemical dips. Dips dissolve tarnish rapidly. Professional silver restorers use it for heavy, black tarnish. The dip is wiped over the object with a cellulose sponge or cotton ball to avoid over cleaning as submerging the entire piece for long periods will damage the silver by pitting of the surface and remove factory-applied patinas, then the new surface will act like a sponge and more readily absorb tarnish-producing gases and moisture. The object may then require professional polishing to restore the original finish.

The acid in these dips will damage bronze, stainless steel and other materials. When using dips you must work in a well-ventilated area and wear nitrile gloves. Also chemical dips should never be used anything with sealed components, like hollow feet, hollow handles on pitchers, teapots, creamers, candlestick or trophies. If the dip leaks into the cavity through small holes or imperfections in the joints, it is virtually impossible to wash the chemical out.

9. Electrochemical (Galvanic) Reduction: We do NOT recommend this cleaning technique. Items cleaned by this method may tarnish more quickly because the surface will act like a sponge and more readily absorb tarnish-producing chemicals and moisture. The solution used can also creep into hollow areas such as handles, weighted pieces with minute holes, and any porous attachments.

10. Tarnish is removed by the Taxco chain supplier Creations Plateria:
mix in 1/3 gallon of water
1 capfull of Mr. Clean with lemon
1 capfull of Tide laundry detergent
Let the chain sit in this for 24 hours. Clean with a toothbrush, rub the chain clean and rinse. Place on a dry towel and blow completely dry.

Swimming pool chlorine
The high Chlorine and /or Bromine contents used in swimming pools can accelerate the tarnishing of Sterling Silver jewelry.

Swimming affects silver. Chlorinated pool water and natural springs will turn silver black through chemical reactions. NEVR-DULL is a product the silver if you swim. This product is also a pretty good way to buff out minor scratches on Sterling. Do not use on silver plate or any plated metals.

Removing black tarnish from sterling may be accomplished by placing a double layer of aluminum foil in the bottom of a dish pan, adding warm water and 2 - 3 heaping tablespoons of baking soda. Place the black tarnished item in the dishpan to soak for a few minutes and the tarnish will come off. Rinse the items well and buff with soft polishing cloth to restore luster.

Silver jewelry marked 940, 950, 960, 970, or 980 are of higher silver content than is sterling. Many of the famous jewelry manufacturers in Taxco utilized high content silver for jewelry because it was less likely to tarnish, the glow was of a more subtle nature, and the color of the silver was slightly different.

Tarnish is a discoloration of the surface of silver and many other metal items caused by oxidation, it is caused by exposure to air. Sterling Silver plated with a protective metal, such as Rhodium, to block the tarnishing process. Tarnish resistant silver is a different silver alloy, uses germanium to inhibit the process of oxidation.

Spratling said that 980 silver had a softer glow and complemented a woman's skin when used in jewelry, 980 silver also is more resistant to tarnish

After Cleaning - if you notice a purplish stain after cleaning your silver, DO NOT attempt to remove it. This stain is oxidized copper called firestain, and is commonly found on many colonial through nineteenth century pieces. This process was used to leave the object with a pure silver surface that is more resistant to tarnishing. The stain develops in sterling silver and silver coins when oxygen penetrates the outer surface during brazing, oxidizing the copper content. Fine silver is left on the surface when acid chemically removes the oxidized copper though copper may be oxidized below the surface. These pieces will show this stain after many years of polishing.

1. Don't use toothpaste, ever, as a silver polish.

2. Don't use polishes that have dried-up due to the abrasive particles are now much too concentrated and will harm your silver, don't use steel wool, Scotch-Brite or scouring pads, or chemical dips (too toxic).

3. Remove labels by using a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Remove any sticky residues with isopropyl alcohol. Any discoloration can be removed with polish.

Our list of recommended polishes and cleaners from a jewelry shop or department store:

1. 3M's Tarni-Shield and Twinkle Silver Polish are the least abrasive, Tarni-Shield seems more effective tarnish barrier than Twinkle.

2. Goddard's Long Shine Silver Polish and Silver Wash. Meant to dry then buff polish off.

3. Haggerty Silversmiths Spray Polish - good for fine work, filigree, intricate and hard to reach spots.

4. Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish and Silver Cream offer no tarnish protection. It is especially recommended to remove stains on steel knife blades. If the choice is between a polish that protects better but is more abrasive, and one that does not protect as well but is far less abrasive, go with the less abrasive polish. Polishes that are meant to be washed off are less abrasive because they use a liquid to suspend the polishing ingredients.

Sulfur-containing materials, particularly hydrogen sulfide (H2S), causes silver to tarnish. Common substances that cause tarnish are skin oils, wool, felt, eggs and mayonnaise, onions, rubber and latex, and fossil fuels. Humid air, particularly salty sea air, accelerates tarnishing.

The easiest way to keep you silver in good condition is to frequently wash your silver before tarnish appears with a phosphate-free detergent and to dry it with a soft cotton cloth.

3M's Tarni-Shield Silver Polish is one of the least abrasive polishes and has an effective tarnish barrier. Twinkle Silver Polish is also one of the least abrasive polishes. Goddard's Long Shine Silver Polish and Silver Wash, and Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish and Silver Cream will remove heavier tarnish and residue best.

Store your Silver Jewelry in zip-lock bags. Keep them in a jewelry box, drawer, or any dark place.

Wearing and enjoying your jewelry is the best way to prevent tarnish.

Apply makeup, hair spray and fragrances before your jewelry goes on.

Silver gradually recrystallizes and softens at room temperature, even the fully work-hardened recrystallizes.